Ugo Buzzio came to New York City in 1930 from Piedmont Italy with a knack for sausage making. His corner deli on 8th Avenue in New York City looks just like any other until you look a little closer and notice the men in white coats bustling in the back. The shop works in small batches, crafting products out of pure-bred heritage pork, tying by hand, and curing in a low-tech drying room, the same way it has been done for centuries. The closet of sausages remains full after a long battle against the USDA. They are an exmple of the struggles of small producers to adapt to regulations that are increasingly designed for mass-market food production. The Buzzio family, which has been making traditional Piedmontese charcuterie since the early 20th century, used this same attention to detail to fight the government and win.

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