Cool Stuff – Food + Drink

How to Make Applesauce

As you may recall, I went apple picking with an old college friend not too long ago. It was an attempt to re-live those cool, crisp New England days. But seeing as it was 104 degrees, and we were sweaty, I don’t think it was really a walk down memory lane. But we got apples. And I made a pie. And then I made this: Chunky Apple Sauce. You really […]

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Braised Rabbit with Olives & Preserved Lemon

Raise your hand if you have rabbit or chicken in your freezer. Great! Let’s talk. I am about to embark on a hunting spree. Elk in Wyoming, Javelina in El Paso, Pheasant in South Dakota, Partridge in England, Snowshoe Rabbit in Alaska, Squirrel in… where should I hunt squirrel? I hear they really know how to do it in Kentucky. And all the while I’ll be cooking up recipes for […]

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Heirloom Apple Pie

There’s an old gnarled apple tree hovering over the well at Tulipwood. My great-grandfather built the well and he probably planted the apple tree too. It is a very moody apple tree. Some years it is full of low and high hanging fruit and my brother and I shake it and throw sticks at the branches until we get the nicest rosy fruits on the top and the wormy bits […]

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Homemade Crackers, Friday Night Lights & A Giveaway

Scroll to the bottom to enter the second giveaway of the week… we’re on a roll baby. I’ve been bewitched by Friday Night Lights. The show and the real life fantasy of mine. It is partly because I want to be as cool as Tim Riggins when I grow up, minus the jail bait, but also because I’m enamored by the football culture, and the tailgating culture that can bring […]

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Beer Battered Fried Dove Breast

I spent Labor Day weekend cruising the cotton fields of the Arkansas Delta. By the end of it, there were more doves than any one person could consume. This lead me to invent all kinds of recipes to keep it interesting, as well as churn out some classic recipes from the Italians in the region – 14 Dove Putach, for example. As you know by now, I’m a purist and […]

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How to Clean a Dove

But first you have to shoot it. Just after sunrise. Preferably over a cotton field. Near sunflowers. Dead ones. Doves love dead sunflowers. I do too. I also love dead dove. It tastes like liver, the pudding of the gods. You can read about dead sunflowers in the last chapter of Food Heroes. I love them. More than alive ones. I don’t often watch the sun come up in the […]

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Tuna Preserved in Oil

In some parts of the country, the summer albacore run is in its prime. But even where tuna isn’t plentiful, this preserving technique is a must have. It falls somewhere between fresh and canned tuna, the Italians called it “conservata,” the old tradition of preserving protein in olive oil. It is usually imported from Spain or Italy and sells for as much as $50 a pound, which is especially unnecessary […]

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Fruit Vinegar

Fruit vinegars are a great way to enhance the flavor in almost anything and a good way to use an over abundance of fruit. You can use them to deglaze the pan of a roasted chicken or pork chop, add them to green salads and fruit salads, or add them to sparkling water for a tangy beverage. You can use almost any variety of fruit that’s in season, simply keep […]

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Liver Mousse

If I was sent to that proverbial island and there was one food I could take, it would be liver mousse. I can hear your collective gasp. Most people are reviled by the stuff, but I call it God’s pudding. It’s slightly sweet and very rich and I could eat it endlessly. It serves as the basis for all kinds of internationally popular and unpopular foods – depending on who […]

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Daylilies

When I was a line cook at a restaurant in the Hudson Valley long ago, I used to pick daylilies right before dinner service. It was my favorite thing to do. Not because I’m a girl and I like picking flowers…but because it was an escape from the brutal kitchen. An excuse to leave and experience a few minutes of fresh air and quiet woods. I especially liked running out […]

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