There are certain recipes that are so versatile, that they are a perfect place to incorporate your favorite meat, especially those extra scraps that you don’t know what to do with. One of my favorite such recipes is fried rice—full of bold flavor, spice and sweetness and a perfect base in which to incorporate duck, especially these wild ones that a friend of mine recently dropped into my freezer. If […]
My favorite part about the opening of hunting season is that I get to begin experimenting with new wild game recipes. But sometimes the best ideas and inspiration come at unexpected moments. (Check out all of my dove recipes here or scroll to the bottom for a list.) While in Arkansas on a recent dove hunting weekend, my friend Jake Michael was in the kitchen chopping up some garlic and […]
When I was in Arkansas I made a new friend. And one night, while we all were digesting our 237th feast, she told us about this recipe she’d dreamed up using shrimp she’d had. It was smothered in scallions and tomatoes and lots and lots of butter. She agreed to make it for us as soon as possible. Feast number 238 was scheduled. What I like about this is that […]
I used to think of it as the strange stuff I’d see in strange gas stations on my strange cross country road trips. It was usually in stick form, a long tubular stick, wrapped in a coating of plastic, with a peculiar name like… Slim Jim, not because it made you slim, but because it was a slim, tubular portion…in a coating of plastic. But then, I made my own. […]
A cassoulet is an Occitan dish–that part of Southern France where they speak a beautiful and fading romance language, Occitan. It is a stew of beans and meat; sometimes pork, sometimes goose, or mutton or whatever else they please. It is hearty and traditionally cooked in a cassole, a deep earthenware pot with slanted sides. But since I am not Occitan, but me, I cooked mine in a skillet. I […]
In some parts of the country, the summer albacore run is in its prime. But even where tuna isn’t plentiful, this preserving technique is a must have. It falls somewhere between fresh and canned tuna, the Italians called it “conservata,” the old tradition of preserving protein in olive oil. It is usually imported from Spain or Italy and sells for as much as $50 a pound, which is especially unnecessary […]
Changing People’s Minds: A Step by Step Guide: One particularly fine friend recently said he didn’t like eggplant. So I made eggplant for dinner. When someone tells me they don’t like a particular food, I don’t hear them. I go conveniently deaf. Then I’m suddenly possessed by the overwhelming urge to make that particular food. Annoying? Probably… but I like to take the more highbrow view — it is a […]
Tis the season for rhubarb. This is a rhubarb chutney recipe I developed while at Gramercy Tavern which we used on the spring cheese plate. You’ll notice that the sweet and sour components of the rhubarb bring out different qualities in the cheeses, flavors you don’t get when eating the cheese alone.